Tires: World GT spec tires. Body: Nascar Truck body. Holes may be drilled in the body for the purpose of mounting the body or transponder. Any other holes in the main body surface area, for any other reason are prohibited. Mid-motor configuration or rear motor configuration. No truck chassis are allowed or truck a-arms. Battery must be down the center of the chassis.
Lowering kits are allowed along with touring shocks and a speedy's kit. No other home made kit with be allowed. Aftermarket body mounts and bumpers are allowed but metal bumpers or body parts are not permitted. Limiting of shocks is allowed inside the shock. No adjustable a-arms or modifying the holes in the chassis to change the angle of the a-arms. All weight added must be inside the chassis. Minimum weight of 59 ounces. Body: 1. No open wheeled bodies are allowed. No decking the bodies, no vent holes, the car must have a complete windshield.
Rear spoilers are optional. They can only be one inch off the rear deck and no side panels. Rear bumper must remain intact.
No parts of either style motors may be modified, altered or removed in any way 3. Stock blue esc xl5 must be used with the Traxxas 12 turn motor. Tires: Any foam or rubber tire with out pins or aggressive tread mounted on 2.
Spec No spec mod. Turnbuckles are allowed for steering links. Bearings are allowed. No cutting or shaving of ANY parts to reduce weight. No drilling holes in any parts or body to reduce weight. No ceramic bearings or ceramic diff balls. No performance improving hardware. RJ Speed bomber body or McAllister or bomber body only.
No alterations or scraping to the body. Wheel well area can be trimmed forward or back to fit the location of the tire. The only holes allowed in the body are the 4 body mount holes. CRC rubber carpet tires only.
The only allowed modification of the tires is gluing the sidewall. Any and all other modifications to the tires is illegal. Electronics 1. TOUR Fantom All motors are to be checked and set by your local authorized Spec 10 ambassador or the motor can be shipped to Southern Indiana RC Speedway for proper tuning. Servo must be a standard low profile servo. All cars must cross the start finish line in their qualifying order.
The driver who jumps the start is sent to the back of the field and the race is restarted. Passing a car that was driven all the way up to the wall, without interference by another car, is not a jump.
SK Modified. Follow the link to the SK modified rules:. Mudboss Class Rules. Cannot cut or alter chassis other than shaving the ridges in the tray for a flat surface for. May use any Traxxas brand replacement part intended for the. Magnum transmissions. Exception Traxxas Ball diffs No ball diffs allowed. Slipper Clutch assembly must remain on the car, no slipper eliminator hubs will be allowed.
No Homemade shock towers or other suspension items or performance enhancing items will be allowed. No aluminum bulkheads. Must not be altered in any way. No removing or replacing of any components unless otherwise specified. All suspension components must be installed in the proper positions and orientation on the car from the factory. Locking the differential will not be allowed.
Both wheels must spin in opposite directions 9. May use any combination of stock grey or black wheel hexes that come with the kit. No aftermarket wheel hexes will be allowed. No double stacking or gluing wheel hexes together must have one hex per corner of the car. No metal bumpers, nerf bars or cages allowed. No sway bars allowed Front shock tower brace allowed Battery must be mounted in the stock center tray location, but can be moved forward or back as long as it stays within the stock boundaries of the battery tray.
You may use a different battery strap other than the stock strap however the battery must be properly secured. Car must not dig into the track. Any car that is digging into the track repeatedly must be pulled off and fixed before it is allowed to re-enter. Adding weight to the car is OK but must be securely fastened.
No weight allowed on the a-arms or nerf bars. All weight must be inside the chassis. Tuning, tweaking, or modifying the stock Titan motor in any way will not be allowed. Breaking in the motor is allowed. Because of this the torq ring will no longer be required. During this transition period you may remove the ring from one of the motors that came with a torq ring from the factory but the motor must otherwise be a stock unaltered Titan 12t The stock bullet connectors from the motor to the ESC must also be used.
Soldering the connectors together is not allowed. Any 2-cell Li-Po Li-Po must be charged max 8. Any plug may be used for the batter to ESC connection. However, direct soldering to the battery will not be allowed.
Additional Glitch busters and Capacitors are not allowed anywhere in the system. Any slick tire. May use any offset of rim on any corner of the car. Any Traxxas white progressive tuning spring will be allowed. This includes the different colored striped springs that are available from Traxxas.
Springs may not be cut or altered from factory in any way. The RF will have negative camber and the LF will have positive. Meaning the RF will lean in and the LF out. Camber is very useful in set-up. Castor literally is the amount of change up or down in the end of the spindle front axle from straight ahead to when the wheels are turn a set amount.
Changing the rear track width is one of the easiest ways to adjust your car. It can be a very important tool. Therefore is crucial to have it in the right place! Most cars have the option to locate the battery in different spots. Inward or front to back in some cases. When compressed the shock must have adequate down-travel. It also most have up-travel which is critical for the cars traction.
Will be discussed later. Toe-in happens when the front width of the front tires is narrower than the back width of the front tires. Toe-out is the opposite.
Foam rubber has less bite and more wear than other tires. The foam rubber compounds are Blue, Green, Orange and yellow. Compounds are Red, Purple and Pink. Where you place your electronics, your wheelbase, and body position all affect your car package. They generally make the front suspension feel smoother. Constant rate or standard springs have the same rate throughout their travel. A pushing car scrubs off all its speed in the corners. I think that covers terminology for now.
Now I am going to go in-depth with everything you need to know on how to go fast! Read carefully. Tweak is almost as important as charging the battery. Too much or not enough can slow the car down. First off, a ton of guys at the track have digital scale setups for setting tweak. Someone will let you use theirs, but remember there can be a great difference between scales. It is best to use the same ones all day. As a base start for everyone, I would run When setting the tweak use equal movements on both shocks or tweak screws.
You want fairly equal preload on you springs. Depending on conditions, car package and class you may need a little more or less but this should get you close to start. Since you set the tweak while the car is a rest obviously , it is the basis for the weight transfer in the corners. When you go through the corner weight transfers from the left to the right. The more weight you start with on the left the more that will remain on the left through cornering.
Too much tweak will make the car push and lose speed. Tweak is not a great chassis-tuning device. I basically leave the tweak about the same everywhere I go. Within a 1 oz. The only thing I use it for is if the car is too tight or pushy going into the corner, then I may reduce it slightly, but too much and the car will lose forward bite coming off the corner. Which is extremely bad because getting off the corner fast is where the real speed is.
For 4-cell set the tweak with about Stagger is a biggie. Think of an axle with one big wheel and one small wheel. When the axle rolls it will pull in the direction of whatever side the smaller wheel is on. That is why running stagger in the car helps the car turn. On a real racecar they run stagger in the inches. We run stagger in the thousands of an inch!
Running stagger is not a necessity, especially on flat tracks. Most of the time I run a little bigger LR or reverse stagger. Stagger in the front tires is also very important.
Running a bigger RF will pick up weight on the LR making the car have more push. To start, I would run the car with no stagger. Depending on the cars handling add or take away stagger. If you have to run more than. Generally I end up with.
As your tires wear you will lose your stagger settings! As a general rule most guys will tell you to set the camber so the tires wear flat. This is a good rule of thumb. But Camber can do a ton for your cars handling. Reduce it to take away steering. Castor is important but not something that is of great help to beginners. First off, when looking at the kingpin from the side the upper part should always be leaning toward the back of the car.
Secondly, the LF should always have less castor than the RF. Some of the affects of castor are this. Running lots of castor will make the car stable on the straight-aways, but this will add a ton of scrub to the car, slowing it down. It is best to run as little castor as possible.
That equals the least amount of scrub. Adding castor will make the car turn into the corner better and make it push more coming off the corner. Running less castor will make the car tighter entering the corner and loosen it coming off.
This will work at most every track. Like I said this is a very fine tune adjustment. Wheelbase is a hot topic of debate. It is my belief that short wheelbase cars are faster but they can be more difficult to set-up. I would always run short wheelbase and focus on working out your problems; you will be quicker for your troubles. When you shorten the wheelbase, you have to move the body back with it.
In turn this will make the car push, then you can take steps to loosen your car back up. The end result is a car with the necessary traction and a looser overall set-up, which equals faster lap times! By looser overall set-up I mean harder tires less rolling resistance , softer springs, etc. Rear track width, another biggie. Basically the wider the rear track the looser the car will be and a narrower rear track will tend to be tighter. The rear axle of your car is like a lever.
If you move just the RR out, it will have more leverage and the car will turn better. And in reverse if you move the LR out the car will drive toward the outside more, tightening the car.
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