Especially avoid watering late in the day or at night, since the grass blades will stay wet all night long, encouraging leaf diseases.
Mowing too short weakens the grass plant, making it more susceptible to infection. Most grass types should be mowed using a high inch mowing setting. Bermudagrass grass in the south should be mowed using a lower 1. To control lawn diseases such as brown patch and dollar spot — or help prevent them if you have had disease problems in previous years — apply a fungicide made for lawns.
You can apply any time on all lawn types. Just be sure to follow the directions on the label. Hi Tommy Since both of these products provide a full feeding, allow 6 weeks between applications.
Hi, I see that you have been very helpfull to everybody that asked you question. Hopefully I can get some help too I live in paramus New Jersey. The area of my back years is about 12, sqf. Lawn has a lot off opt traffic because I have a pool in the back yard. The right side that has the. Is full with crabgrass I believ. I also have dandelion I think. The yellow long weeds.
By the pool n the more shady area. This year I bought a combination of an aerator and spreader. To break the hard lawn. I definitely want to overseed my lawn again bc it is noth thick. I think I should use your second advice.
I wandered is If I can use it with my aerator n spreder. After that. Do you think that is a good idea. My lawn is mostly brown now. N some green spots are showing I wanted to seed now before it gets worm. So the seeds can grown in roots. Please let me know any tips n advice. Hi Sarkis Aerating before you seed will help the seed come in contact with the soil, which is necessary for it to survive. One of the Turf Builder seed blends would be best to use. There is one for sun and one for shade.
Do not use any other weed controls until after your new grass has been mowed 4times. I spread it with my aerator and the dropper setting was I believe on 11 as indicated on the back of the started mix bag. I also threw Sta-Green lbs Lime, it was rapid lime with calcium, because I have a lot of pine trees and my pH was very low. When I was spreading I might have went over some spots more than once. My problem now is that there is a location that the grass completely dried up.
Not the crab grass but locations where there was good grass. Also the whole lawn is un even. What I mean by that is the there are lines that are 3 to 4 feet wide with very green and tall grass, and there are lines that the grass is light green yellow almost dried up. I keep watering the lawn wih water from a well, is high in alkalinity, minus the bleach that is in the top water. The lawn looks bad and un even, I wanted to know what could have cause this.
Also, is there a way to fix that. Hi Sarkis The pictures on your Facebook link were very helpful. It appears that the lawn food went down heavy in some areas and some areas did not receive much feeding. My guess is the spreader setting was left at the higher number for the grass seed when the lawn food and weed preventer was spread and some areas were missed during this process.
Suggest you feed your entire lawn with Turf Builder. Your grass will continue to show some uneven green, however it will not be as much as you are seeing now. Thank you again for your help. Hi Sarkis E Hope this helps. Sorry you had the first experience. Let me know how your lawn is doing in about a month. I live in North East Connecticut. I waited too long to over seed in the fall which I should have done.
Wanted to do it this spring. The snow is finally melting and I want to start working on my lawn. I was going to Lime, then aerate, then over seed, then use the Scotts. Should I now over seed? Should I not use the Scotts? Should I over seed and wait a certain amount of time and then put down the Scotts?
Also, when is to early to do any of those? It still gets below freezing at night right now. Might be like that for another couple of weeks. Any help would be great! Hi Bryan You are likely a few weeks away from seeding time. If you were to seed now the grass seed would lay there until the ground warms up. All your plans sound good except putting down the Turf Builder with Halts after you seed as this would keep your new grass seed from growing. You will get about 6 weeks of crabgrass prevention as well as other weeds which will help your new grass become established before being choked out with aggressive weeds.
Ok cool. Thanks for the quick response. I live on Long Island and I wanted to power rake as well as put down Scotts with Halts crabgrass fertilizer. Can you tell me the timing I should do each. Can I power rake this weekend and then fertilizer right after? Hi Bryan Yes, you can power rake and then spread Turf Builder with Halts after you rake up the loose thatch. Be sure not to set the Power Rake too low so that you tear up your lawn too much.
An alternative to power raking to allow air and water to more easily pass a thick thatch layer greater than a half inch of thatch is core aeration. You can leave the cores on the soil surface as they will break up and you could spread the Turf Builder with Halts afterwards. Now if you plan on putting down any grass seed after doing either power raking or core aeration, you will need to use a different crabgrass preventer so your grass seed can germinate: Scotts Starter Lawn Food plus Weed Preventer.
I am in NJ and 5 days ago I raked, soiled and put new seeds on a large area. Is there anything I can do at this point? When can I reseed assuming I have lost this season? Hi Ninni Sorry to hear about your problem.
You may get some spotty germination of your good grass, however you likely will not see full germination. The crabgrass barrier lasts long past the prime spring seeding season up to 4 months , so your best option is to seed this area in early September. Sorry I do not have a better answer. I need to overseed in my front yard because of some thin areas and wondering when I could do so if I use a slit seeder.
The backyard also needs to have some spots repaired because of snow mold damage. I read a previous post stating I may be able to turn the soil 4 inches deep and get around the halts protection but would prefer to slit seed the entire yard if possible. We did get around 2 inches of heavy rain the night after the backyard application, could that speed up when I could reseed? Hi Julian I wish I could tell you that slit seeding under the crabgrass barrier that you now have on your lawn after putting down Turf Builder with Halts would give you new grass.
My concern is that as this grass attempts to sprout, it will die rather than thrive. The barrier lasts about 4 months, so if you want to seed more than a few bare spots, you should probably wait till fall.
Even with the heavy rain after application, I believe you will get inhibition of the grass seed germination. One positive is that you will see your grass fill in thin areas from the Turf Builder feeding. A second feeding prior to summer about 6 weeks after the first and you may find your thin areas are filled in. Ashton, much has been said about crabgrass, but few comments deal with quackgrass. Here in Wisconsin we deal with it all the time.
I have a new lawn as of last summer and hand picked in the fall almost all of the quack that was going to seed. I know the quack has powerful underground rhizomes that keep producing no matter how much I try to dissuade it from growing. Does Halts plus handle quack seeds and, if so, must I apply it this fall, too? If I do both a spring and fall application, I have no chance to spread seed.
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